Chef’s Diary

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December 25, 2007

Chefsdiary in Barcelona - part 2

Category: Barcelona – Dom – 11:32 pm

Now that we’ve been back in Paris for a few days (and that the Christmas meal is over and done with) I just wanted to mention some of the main points from our final 2 days in Barcelona.

On the food front, we continued to test out the suggestions of our guide book, this time getting a 100% success rate

  • the very interesting “Comerç 24” (Comerç 24).
    • Arrived at 14hrs, service pretty poor (that is, the head waiter wasn’t in the slightest bit helpful - he really didn’t want to let us have a “menu estival” and a selection of tapas at the same time), but the food was a real experience…not always great, but always interesting. Overall cost was excessive at 120€, but given that we felt as though we’d been taken on an interesting 2 hour culinary journey, it didn’t bother us so much. The outstanding “taste” points were : chocolate with salt and olive oil, black rice with razor fish, caviar with tuna tartare and egg yolk, oxtail and truffle with a cauliflower écume, morrel and razor fish ravioli. I’d recommend it, for lunch - insist on sitting in the area which looks onto the open kitchen…..as always, it’s interesting to see how they work.
  • the excellent value “Ra” (review of Ra)
  • The team suggests a short menu (3 starters, 3 mains, 3 desserts) with 1 drink (wine or soft drink) and bread included for 13,50€. I wouldn’t say that the food was excellent (desserts were v. basic, but the mains and starters that we had were decent), but they were good, honest dishes with efforts on the combinations (coconut and squash soup) and presentation. Right next to the wonderful food market “La Boqueria”, it makes a very cheap place to chill out and fill up. The view ain’t great, however, given that it looks onto a scruffy carpark, and I wonder how it would be when it is very cold and raining (even though it was a dull, cool day, we ate outside, as did everyone, and I didn’t see a great deal of space inside). The products can’t be top notch, but I’ve eaten in much more expensive restaurants where the products are probably of the same relatively low quality, but the cuisine has been much poorer and the bill much bigger (money going into a better location and fancier view - I’m thinking particularly of the restaurant “Agua”).

    On the tourist visit front, Gaudi remained the top visit…this time the Sagrada Familia and the Casa Milà (Pedrera). I spent a couple of hours at the MACBA (Contemporary Art Museum) at the end of a rainy day - ticket for 3 exhibitions 7,50€ which is valid for 1 month. So, good value, just shame that I didn’t understand either the permanent or the Joan Jonas exhibitions, but enjoyed the one covering American and French modern art in the 1950’s.

    On the shopping front, my wife thoroughly appreciated the chain of shops “Desegual” (it’s not spelt like that but it’s close….I think !) - very spanish.

    A lovely city and worth a second visit - maybe when the weather is a bit better, though !

    December 20, 2007

    chefsdiary in Barcelona

    Category: Barcelona, English – Dom – 8:27 pm

    My wife has whisked me off to Barça for 4 days….this is our Christmas present….no kids, lie-ins, tapas, coffee (cafe solo and con lece), bracing wind by the beach, lots of walking, Gaudi, dancing, guitar music, colourful clothes (for lasses, anyway).

    We´re discovering the city (even though I´ve been here twice already) with the series of guide books “Real City” by Dorling & Kindersley - lots of good photos and text that seems to capture the mood of the city. So far we´ve used it mainly for the restaurants and bars. Yesterday, 2 restaurants (”Agua” and “Taller de Tapas” - which is infact a chain of 9 tapas bars, which was not at all the impression that I had from the guide) tested but both disappointing - food not in the slightest imaginative, and not particularly well executed. Expecting top, fresh fish at least, but not really present on the menus that we saw. Today, visit to the “Mercat de La Boquería”, the biggest food market in Barcelona and ate (razor shell fish with basil and olive oil dressing, and päella - 21€) in one of the bars within the market. Good stuff and recommended, though probably not the cheapest place to eat, but way better than yesterday. Followed by glorious visit to “Casa Batlló” - the Gaudi special….and well worth the visit, though 16.50€ is a bit steep. Finished off the afternoon with a good coffee and chocolate cake in the bar “Absinthe” in the Barcelonetta area…..v. friendly welcome, 8€ for 3 coffees and 1 cake, and soft, comfy sofa. On the way, discovered the cool bar “Sal Cafe” which looks out onto the sea (Barcelonetta again), but unfortunately it was closing for the afternoon….another time.

    Tonight we´re off dancing (Paloma) following our neighbour´s - Chloe - recommendation….much more trustworthy than our guidebook I reckon.

    Tomorrow we´ve got guitar music, Sagrada Família and typical Catalan cuisine on the agenda….I´m determined to find and savour some typical fare before my departure !